Things to do in Paris as a couple that aren't a dinner reservation.

Seven, in order

1. Breakfast at a 1900 bakery Maison Bergeron on rue Saint-Dominique, facing the Fontaine de Mars, with its listed decor. Croissants, kouign-amann. Closed Sundays, so go Saturday.
2. Walk the line, the right way round Start at the École Militaire and walk towards the Tower, not away from it. The walk guide has the six sights; it takes about two hours if you actually read the plinths to each other.
3. Make it a game for two Paris, Probably is the same walk as a puzzle trail: somebody gave you a gloriously confident guidebook by a man who has never been to Paris, and every chapter is wrong in a way you can only check by looking. One phone, your own pace, a Field Journal for Two to keep. Opening soon; the Pont d'Iéna stop is free today.
4. The lawn The Champ de Mars, head-on to the Tower, with whatever you carried from the bakery. The ice cream is a block east at Moustache.
5. An hour on the water Bateaux Parisiens leave from the quay beside the Pont d'Iéna. An hour, no commentary required.
6. The view, early The Chaillot esplanade before ten in the morning is a different place from the Chaillot esplanade at four in the afternoon. The architects built the whole palace around this one view.
7. Sit down on the square Carette for macarons and thick hot chocolate, Café du Trocadéro for the terrace facing the Tower, Café de l'Homme inside the palace if you booked. Marshal Foch will be looking the other way.

What we left out, and why

• Going up the Tower. Lovely, but it is a queue and a timed ticket, and the best view of the Tower is from outside it.
• Locks on bridges. The city removes them.
• Anything that needs a reservation three weeks ahead. This list works on the day.